Fenugreek

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Fenugreek

Fenugreek is like a gift and a curse to me.  I love both the seeds and the leaves, but it’s one of those spices that stick.  Crushing the leaves between you fingers will leave behind the sweet, celery-like smell, and I always have to douse my hands with lemon juice to get rid of it.  And even then…That said, both add such incredible depth of character to dishes, they are staples in my spice pantry.

Fenugreek seeds are small, hard, and rectangular and have a bitter, vegetal flavor.  They also have maple syrup-like notes, particularly when toasted.  I know – sounds odd, but it’s true.  The seeds are generally known to be used in Indian cooking and are a key spice in any given curry; I used them in my South Indian gazpacho.   However, they are also used throughout Middle Eastern, North African, and even East African cooking – like in my version of Ethiopian clarified butter.  It’s a fantastic spice if used in moderation (ground to a powder), and I actually love it paired with vegetables.  It can add amazing flavor to a soup (I’m partial to asparagus), is delicious mixed in with an aioli for a condiment, and great in a dry rub.

The leaves can be either fresh or dried and are a subtler version of the seeds.  I’ve actually never used fresh, so I can’t speak to it, but the dried form is incredible.  I tend to use the leaves more frequently because they can fold in with other ingredients without overpowering a dish.  They have a warm, sweet, grassiness to them, and the uses are never-ending.  I love the leaves mixed in with yogurt as a dip for crudités, with any potato or vegetable purée (see my cauliflower one), in salads or dressings, in a dry rub for fish or chicken, to flavor a butter sauce…

I actually pick up my seeds at Dean & Deluca in Manhattan, but very few regular grocers carry it.  And the leaves are a bit harder to find.  Make sure to store the leaves out of the light – light will lighten the color and leach the flavor from them.

Creamy Cauliflower Puree with Fenugreek

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Creamy Cauliflower Puree with Fenugreek

So it’s the middle of summer.  I know a bathing suit looms in the near future, and despite all attempts I’ve let things like pork buns, sausage orecchiette, a hot dog on the run, and delicious pastries from Duane Park Patisserie interrupt an otherwise (mildly) healthy flow of food.  Let’s not even bring up the subject of wine.

My fridge is loaded with fruits and veggies, sending subliminal messages of health across my apartment.  I was seriously in the throes of a carb-craving the other day, and with nothing other than fruits and veggies decided to get a little creative.  The result?  A lusciously, creamy cauliflower puree flecked with crushed fenugreek leaves.

Okay, so in reality, this still has butter and some milk, but it’s definitely better for you than equally buttery mashed potatoes.   The cauliflower, cooked until super tender, is fresh and creamy when pureed.  Fenugreek, as a seasoning, is used in so many different cultures – South Asian, Ethiopian (like in the clarified butter), Iranian, Turkish, Afghani…to name a few.  I chose the leaves here over the seeds because the flavor of the leaves is much more subtle and lacks the typical bitterness of the seeds.  Fenugreek leaves have a flavor not unlike celery, and, when warm, emit a sweetness of sorts.

This is a sinfully easy side dish to make.  Fenugreek leaves can be purchased at most specialty spice stores, and even health food stores.  Enjoy!

Ingredients

Yields 6 to 8 servings

3 small heads or 2 large heads of cauliflower, cored and cut into even-sized florets

3 garlic cloves

6 cups milk

1 stick butter

1 ½ tsps ground fenugreek leaves*

chopped chives

salt & freshly ground pepper

Procedure

In a medium pot, bring cauliflower, garlic, a pinch of salt and milk up to a simmer.  Do not boil.  Simmer covered for 12-15 minutes or until cauliflower is very tender.

Strain cauliflower and garlic from milk mixture, reserving both.  Melt butter with ground fenugreek in a small saucepot for 5 to 7 minutes.

Puree cauliflower in a blender with 1-1 ¼ cups of reserved milk and melted fenugreek butter, working in batches if necessary.  Adjust milk amount based on desired texture of the puree.  Season with salt and freshly ground pepper and garnish with chives.

*In order to grind the fenugreek leaves without any of the stems, place a small sieve over a paper towel.  Add fenugreek leaves and crush the leaves between your fingers and/or against the sieve, itself.  The ground fenugreek will fall through the sieve onto the paper towel.